It is early evening when I arrive at Siem Reap airport, so Cambodia’s second gateway is not at its busiest. Even so, I am grateful when I spot an official with a sign bearing my name. He welcomes me, relieves me of my passport and visa and bids me take a seat while he takes care of the paperwork.
I have barely enough time to eye up other arriving passengers as they line up patiently in the immigration queue before my “minder”, arranged apparently through the tour operator, is back bearing the correct pieces of paper and guiding me through a special gate into the baggage hall.
A few steps later and I have retrieved my bag, passed through customs and have delivered both myself and my baggage into the safe and civilised hands of Mac, who turns out to be my personal butler, sent to escort me to the super-stylish Shinta Mani Angkor hotel, part of the Bensley Collection, the first port of call in my quest to visit Cambodia in the most luxurious way I can manage.