Phnom Penh railway station radiates the ghosts of passengers past. It’s a gigantic white wedding cake where signs point commuters to “consignes” and “toilettes”. The destinations listed above most of the ticket counters are optimistic. After dictator Pol Pot held court on the concourse in 1975, only a few lamentable carriages continued to totter around the network until 2002. Now a bugling peep from the platform edge suggests there’s a gentler revolution in train travel.