Koh Ker : Second Only to Angkor

For centuries, the jungle was its fate, plunging it into oblivion, but also sheltering it from smugglers who tore chunks of history from other Cambodian monuments. Viewed from the air, Koh Ker’s giant pyramid looms over the horizon, standing 35 meters tall over an endless expanse of jungle.

Koh Ker was the city Jay­avar­man IV built for himself in the 10th century, becoming his capital when he proclaimed himself king in dubious circumstances in 928. But Koh Ker’s brief glory did not outlive its build­er by more than two years—in 944, Jayavarman’s nephew King Rajen­dravarman II moved the capital back to Angkor.

Virtually ignored before the war, the area was the site of confrontations between Khmer Rouge and government forces in the 1980s and 1990s. Now efforts are under way in various quarters to bring the site out of anonymity.

On July 10, a delegation of government officials and diplomats visited Koh Ker by helicopter to launch the campaign to develop the site, 80 km north of Siem Reap in Preah Vihear province. The road, flooded at places, made it impossible to bring the 60 or so visitors by land from Siem Reap.

“It’s always been my dream,” for people to re­discover Koh Ker, said Sisowath Sirividh Panara, secretary of state for Culture and Fine Arts. The sight of Prasat Thom, or big temple, from the air, makes it easy to share his enthusiasm.

A closer look reveals the formidable challenge officials face making Koh Ker accessible to tourists. Vegetation has eaten away large portions of the pyramid’s seven tiers. Extensive work is necessary before tourists will be able to to climb to the top safely and, more importantly, to protect the temple from further destruction.

Walking from the pyramid, one discovers, sheltered and damaged by natural growth, other elements of Prasat Thom—finely sculpted arches, portions of walls with inscriptions and a series of doorways—that also must be restored and preserved.

There’s a half-buried torso, resting alone. Other statues probably were removed by  smugglers at some point, said Etienne Clement, country representative for the UN Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization.

There are approximtely 68 monuments of all sizes at the site, said Culture Under-secretary Chuch Phoeurn. A few months ago, villagers from neigh­boring communities were enlisted to protect it.

With a Unesco grant of nearly $6,000, villagers have built a shelter and purchased two motorcycles to maintain and monitor the monuments, Chuch Phoeum said.

They police a 300-meter “protection zone” that surrounds the monuments, said Uong Von, director of the Department of Heritage at the Ministry of Culture.

There are other obstacles. The area has not been completely demined. The French government will provide support for the task, and Uong Von is contacting CMAC for additional help.

Developing the site will require a master plan. “Ministries of Tourism, Environment and Culture will meet to work together,” said Minister of Environment Mok Mareth.

Koh Ker is located in a wildlife conservation area protected by royal decree since 1993 and managed by Mareth’s ministry. The region is so rich in fauna that even wild elephants have been spotted, he said.

The Koh Ker project will have to balance tourist amenities with wildlife protection while  safeguarding the monuments. “International aid may be required,” said Mok Mareth.

For the people of neighboring villages, this project offers the opportunity of a better life. “I’m looking at this [project] especially as a way to eliminate poverty; people are very poor,” said Preah Vihear Governor Preap Tann. Many of the villagers are rice farmers with limited access to markets to sell their goods.

Some experts say it will be about five years befoe the site is ready for tourists. Others say it will be 10 years.. And it will probably be a destination for a limited number of more adventurous visitors who want to explore beyond Angkor, said Clement. The site’s biggest as­sets—the combination of a wildlife preserve and historical site—will make it difficult to develop.

In the meantime, Kham Someth Construction Ltd of Siem Reap plans to invest $10 million to upgrade the road between Siem Reap and Koh Ker, and another $6 million on hotels in nearby villages. The company has submitted a proposal to the Council for Development of Cambodia, the government body that will review the project, said Sok Chenda, secretary-general of the Council.

Will Koh Ker be worth the effort? “Historically, it’s one of the keys to the understanding of Khmer art and history—it’s central, right after Angkor,” said Clement.

 

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