siem reap – They came in droves, arriving in packed buses, flatbed trucks, motorbikes, cars, tuk-tuks, and taxis.
For the last three days, Siem Reap has been awash in visitors, the streets packed with vehicles moving amid a constant din of horns, temple bells, traditional music and policemen yelling into megaphones as they try to instill some order.
Pagodas are resplendent in bright orange, blue, white and gold flags; at night, strands of colored lights sparkle everywhere. Revelers play games, smear powder on faces and gleefully splash water on everyone.
At the Angkorian temples, the atmosphere is more sedate; they, too, are crowded with holidaymakers, but many seem awed by their surroundings. They came for many reasons, and had many reactions. Chea Savy, a 30-year-old private guard from Phnom Penh, was making his first visit to Cambodia’s only World Heritage site.
“The carvings are great. Beautiful, beautiful,” he said. “I’m here seeing the history of Cambodia.”
A different past was on the mind of Sok Sony, a Phnom Penh businessman who was visiting the Bayon temple in Angkor Thom with his two daughters. The Bayon is one of the most popular temples, its more than 50 massive towers decorated with smiling faces staring north, south, east and west.
Sok Sony recalled the day 27 years ago today when the Khmer Rouge marched into Phnom Penh to begin their genocidal regime. Cambodia is a much different country today, he said.
“I am happiest about the peace in my country,” he said, gazing at the hordes of visitors.
“I love seeing it all. The Khmer—especially the young Khmer,” he said.
Among the hordes was Battambang housewife Voeun Roeun, 32, making her first visit accompanied by two daughters and three nieces. She couldn’t say which temple she liked the most. “I like them all,” she said. “I’ve always wanted to see them. I’d like to come back, if I have the money.”
The Bayon also proved irresistible to artists. Buddhist student Joe Anunthanasap, 13, a Thai resident, captured the multifaced towers with wide, sharp strokes. “The faces are interesting,” he said. “They like—they smile.”
A few meters away Alice Wood, 25, of Reading, England, was sketching a different scene as a group of Cambodian children watched. She said she had learned all about the traditions of talcum powder and water throwing for the New Year.
“Thankfully, these lot haven’t splashed me or my paintings,” she said, motioning toward the children. “I’m quite happy about that.”
To some, the temples are sacred. Pek Proeun, 70, is a nun who has lived nearby all her life, and she was especially thrilled to be visiting them. “I am happy for the New Year,” she said.
Others find themselves exhilarated just from seeing the beauty of the ancient structures. Benjamin Chen, an ethnic Chinese English teacher from Phnom Penh, was making his fourth visit.
“[Cambodians] have been given a great heritage,” he said, gesturing toward the Bayon and the crowds. “The descendants of the Khmer people must work hard to live up to this heritage.”
While the temples are always popular with foreign tourists, they exert an especially powerful pull on Cambodians during the New Year celebrations.
Ticket sellers say of the thousands of daily visitors during the holiday, only about 300 are foreigners.
Crowds were so thick on Sunday and Monday that traffic jams formed at the southern gate to Angkor Thom, where the road narrows sharply. Visitors had to wait up to 30 minutes for police to unsnarl the traffic.
Despite the delays, police reported no major problems in the park during the first two days of celebrations.
“Everyone’s just having a good time, no problems,” said provincial police officer Noeun Chanly as he directed traffic. “I’m very happy about that.”
