Sharing food in pursuit of the American dream

Nite Yun Eric Wolfinger/Courtesy photo

For Dilsa Lugo, cooking is all about the corn. It reminds her of Mexico and remains a prominent ingredient at her Berkeley restaurant, Los Cilantros.

For Rosa Martinez, cooking is all about family. She dreams of opening a Bay Area restaurant where she can serve the moles and chilies she ate as a child in Mexico with people of in this country.

Cooking is a way to teach and share culture, says Nite Yun, who owns Num Bai, one of the restaurants on the San Francisco Chronicle’s Top 100 Restaurants in 2019. Cambodia is more than the horror of genocide by the Khmer Rouge, she explains. Beautiful things happen in Cambodia, too. One of them is food.

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