Every day at 4pm blocks of ice the size of coffins appear on a remote Cambodian beach. Three excitable teenagers drag the freezing blocks from the hull of a wooden long-tail fishing boat and float them through the waves before dumping them, like lumps of concrete, on the white sand of Sunset Beach.
It’s enough to make you peer out of your hammock to see what all the fuss is about. Now caked in sand, the ice blocks are left in the sun to melt around their edges until the reason for the ice appears nearby; slabs of beer cans. Within 10 minutes both the beer and the ice have been distributed to the four restaurants on Sunset Beach, the teenagers have splashed their way back to the fishing boat, and Koh Rong Samloem’s most remote beach returns to its usual sleepy state.